Hill Top: Mojito, Until I Visit Cuba...

by Keith Flanders

On the opposite side of the street, in the impressively restored chocolate factory at 275 Park Avenue, there sits an oasis, but instead of a spring flowing out of the desert it's mojitos served up in Mason jars at Mojito, an atmospheric and authentic (I think; how would I know, not being able to visit our Caribbean island neighbor?) Cuban bistro. An online reviewer who professes to be from Cuba and "know the real deal," praised Mojito for its authenticity, and I'm not going to argue, since everything I've tasted there is terrific, from the toasted bread with its 3 dipping sauces to the tostones rellenos, to standbys like arroz con pollo and the Cuban sandwich. More exciting are offerings like pollo varadero: a char-grillled garlic-lemon chicken breast which comes with rice & beans and crispy potato strips. I know it sounds basic, but make no mistake; the flavor is out of this world. If you like pork, the pernil is not to be missed: marinated in garlic and slow roasted with just the right amount of onion and seasoning. Whatever you order, be sure to add a side dish of those sweet, sticky ripe plantains called maduros.

Atmosphere as well as food is taken seriously at Mojito, with moody lighting and music set off by Cuban décor designed by someone with a flair for transporting guests to another place and time, one which adds greatly to one's enjoyment of the meal. At the bar you will find enough rum choices to keep Papa Hemingway busy for weeks or at least days, and the signature drink is truly excellent (mojitos may be all the rage, but they're not that easy to make well, as you may know, loyal readers!).

So unless you happen to possess a passport issued by, well, any country other than the good old USA, you'll have to get your dose of Habana closer to home, and I strongly encourage you to do so at Mojito.

Planning a dinner out in or around The Hill is a delightful challenge, no question about it. On DeKalb Avenue alone you can dine out every night of the week and still have leftover choices, let alone on Fulton or Myrtle. But next time you do, consider heading "north of the highway." You won't be sorry!

Mojito
82 Washington Avenue
718-797-3100
Mon-Thurs Noon-11PM
Fri-Sat Noon-Midnight
Sun 11AM - 11PM

--Keith Flanders lives (and dines) in Wallabout.